History
Delmonico steak: a mystery solved
By JOE O'CONNELL,
Food Writer
First posted 25 August 2001 at 1525 GMT
Last updated 30 November 2003 at 1702 GMT
NEW YORK, New York -- The Delmonico Steak is
one of the most desirable and well-known steaks on the market. It
originated between 1840 and 1850 as the house cut at Delmonico's
Restaurant in lower Manhattan.
However, there is a problem with the modern name "Delmonico Steak":
no one seems to remember the exact cut of beef that was the original,
authentic Delmonico Steak.
The problem is that the meaning of the Delmonico Steak changed over
the years and from place to place. More than 150 years after the
Delmonico Steak was first offered to customers as the "best steak
available", the identify of that original cut has been lost. Or
has it? The name is regularly used today as a synonym for a club
steak, a New York strip steak, a boneless rib-eye steak, and several
other cuts, as described below.
So, what was the steak which was used originally at Delmonico's
restaurant? What is an authentic Delmonico steak?
Different claims
Many authorities on steak make different claims about the identity of
the authentic Delmonico Steak. The name Delmonico Steak is used
for many different cuts. In fact, various authoritative sources
assert that at least eight different cuts are the real Delmonico
Steak!
Here are the eight different cuts which various authorities claim to
be the original, authentic cut for the Delmonico Steak, starting with
the cut closest to the beef's head (anterior) and moving back
(posterior).
1. Last boneless chuck-eye steak
Bob Dugas owns Lakeside Meats in Carlsbad, New Mexico. Bob is a
real butcher and is one of Danny Gaulden's meat suppliers. Bob has
researched the question and believes that the original, authentic
Delmonico steak is the first 3" steak cut from the chuck eye, where it
joins the rib-eye (i.e. the first steak cut from the extension anterior
of the rib-eye).
Thus, according to Bob, there are only two Delmonico Steaks per beef
carcass -- one per side.
The chuck eye steak has several other names:
- mock tender steak
- chuck fillet steak
- chuck filet steak
- beauty steak
- chuck tender steak
- fish steak
See the Cook's Thesaurus on
Beef Chuck.
2. Any bone-in rib steak
According the Fabulous Foods Cooking School, the
Delmonico Steak is a bone-in rib steak (not to be confused with the
bone-in rib-eye steak, which is a different cut, as described below).
Made famous at Delmonico's Restaurant in New York, this is a large
steak that is usually cut one rib thick and has a fair amount of
marbling. A bone-in cut, Delmonicos are usually between one and
two inches thick.
Id.
3. Any bone-in rib-eye steak
Emeril Lagasse, the well-known chef who has started a chain of
Delmonico Restaurants in several cities, refers to the Delmonico Steak
as a bone-in rib-eye steak. See his recipe for
Delmonico's Dry Aged Rib-Eyes.
The CalBeef
website agrees but says that the term is used both for the bone-in
rib-eye steak as well as the bone-in top loin steak.
4. First boneless rib-eye steak
According to
Art in Steaks, the Delmonico steak is the first cut (nearest the
chuck or front end) of the boneless rib-eye:
Delmonico is the eye of the rib (called ``Rib-Eye" in meat
circles). It is known, generally, for its richness; because of
the greater quantity of fine fat grains -- especially in the outer
part of the eye and especially when cut nearer to the chuck end.
Some people mistake this outer section for ``tail" or flank, but it is
absolutely the sweetest and juiciest of beef eating (in our opinion)
in the world.
Id.
5. Any boneless rib-eye steak
California's Harris Ranch uses the term Delmonico steak for either a
boneless rib-eye steak (also called a fillet steak) or a boneless top
loin steak (also called a strip, shell or club steak ). See Harris
Ranch
Popular Beef Cuts. Prince Meat Company's
Entrees to Excellence also equates the Delmonico steak and the
boneless rib-eye steak.
Chris Schlesigner, co-author of License to Grill, uses the
term for a rib eye. See his recipe for "Grilled Delmonico
Steak Adobo"
here and
also here. See also the BestBeef.com recipe for
Delmonico. Steven Raichlin, author of How to Grill,
refers to the Delmonico steak as a rib-eye steak in a story entitled
"Steak of the Union". Other sites, including restaurant
websites, seem to use Delmonico steak as a synonym of the boneless
rib-eye steak. See, e.g.,
Gallagher's menu and many other restaurants that will be found with
a routine web search of "Delmonico steak."
In a telephone conversation on September 24, 2001 at 3:45 PM PDT
(2245 GMT), the manager of Delmonico's Restaurant in New York City,
Corrado, said that the Delmonico steak is a boneless rib-eye cut from
any part of the rib-eye. The Delmonico chef, Angelo Panageas,
agrees.
Foodies.com tips says,
"Delmonico" is a fancy name for ribeye. You'll find the word
Delmonico more commonly in the Northeast (the original Delmonico's
Restaurant was in NYC); ribeye is the label of choice in the
Southeast.
Id
(citing the National Cattlemen's Beef Association source).
According to the official Canadian government's
food inspection website, Delmonico steak means a rib-eye steak.
Even Julia Child (Child at 191)
and
Martha Stewart agree that the Delmonico Steak is a rib-eye cut.
Finally, the well-known barbecue site, Barbecuen.com, claims in
"Meat
Cuts & Tenderness" that the Delmonico steak is an ordinary rib-eye
steak.
6. First bone-in top loin steak
According to the Culinary Cafe, the Delmonico steak is also called a
club steak, but both names refer to Delmonico's Restaurant and refer to
the first cut of the bone-in top loin, adjacent to the rib section.
The steak is triangular, but smaller than a T-bone. See the
Culinary Cafe
Glossary.
7. Any bone-in top loin steak
The Gourmet Emporium says,
The Delmonico Steak is simply a New York Strip Steak with the bone
left in, giving this already delicious steak an extra boost of flavor.
Id.
Similarly, the Gourmet Sleuth
Guide to Beef Cuts says that the Delmonico Steak means either a
bone-in top loin or a rib-eye.
The famous Pacific Dining Car Restaurant in Los Angeles agrees on its
menu, saying that the Delmonico steak is a "turn-of-the-century
favorite . . . a New York strip steak with the bone still in for the
sweetest taste of beef." See, also, the Official
Pacific Dining Car website
menu and the
CitySearch Review here.
According to the authoritative Lobel's butcher in New York, its
"Beef:
A Primer on Steaks" says:
Club Steak -- Also called Delmonico, after the famed 19th
century New York dining club that served this steak exclusively.
The club steak is rectangular in shape. It is smaller than the
T-bone but has the same large "eye" section with no tenderloin.
The club is cut from the short loin, next to the rib end.
This is a delicious and tender steak when properly cut. When you
buy a club steak, take a good look at the steak's "eye." The
meat should be fine in texture with delicate marbling. If the
meat seems coarse and contains fat chunks, you will know this is not
the quality you want.
Id.
Greg's Quality Market http://www.mwt.net/~ghmahveh/has almost exactly
the same description (except only that the shape is described as
triangular):
Club Steak -- Sometimes called Delmonico, after the famed
19th century New York dining club which served this steak exclusively,
the club steak is triangular in shape. It is smaller than the
T-bone but has the same large "eye" section with no tenderloin.
The club is cut from the short loin, next to the rib end. When
cut properly, this is a delicious and tender steak. When you buy
a club steak from a new butcher, take a good look at the steak's
"eye." The meat should be fine in texture with delicate
marbling. If the meat seems coarse and contains fat chunks, you
will know it is not the quality you want.
Id.
8. Any boneless top loin steak
According to the
FoodTV Encyclopedia for Delmonico Steak, the Delmonico steak is a
boneless top loin steak, which is also called a New York strip
steak and a Kansas City strip steak. (With the bone in, it
is usually called a club steak.)
InfoPlease
article on food names agrees and says that the Delmonico steak is a
boneless top loin, also called the New York strip and Kansas City strip.
See also the
Learning Network. The AllRecipes entry for
Delmonico steak agrees, as does the Epicurious dictionary entry for
Delmonico steak and the American Heritage Dictionary (at Bartleby)
for
Delmonico steak, but which also says that it is synonymous with
club steak.
California's Harris Ranch uses the term Delmonico steak for either
boneless top loin steak (also called a strip, shell or club steak ) or a
boneless rib-eye steak (also called a fillet steak). See Harris
Ranch
Popular Beef Cuts.
Conclusion
An exhaustive analysis of authorities identifies eight cuts as being
the cut used in the original, authentic Delmonico Steak. None
of these authorities is correct!
Our research of the historical record has found the identity of the
original, authentic cut.
The original, authentic Delmonico steak
To resolve the question of which of these nine candidates is the
original, authentic Delmonico steak, the two original masters themselves
were consulted. As described in a related story on the
history of Delmonico's Restaurant, Alessandro
Filippini and Charles Ranhofer each served as chef de cuisine at
Delmonico's Restaurant in the 19th Century, and each was largely
responsible for building the reputation of the restaurant as the finest
in the United States and one of the finest in the world.
Filippini and Ranhofer each wrote a treatise on food preparation.
Filippini wrote The Table and The International Cook
Book (which were both written for the non-professional home cook),
and Ranhofer wrote The Epicurean (which was written for the
professional chef). Each author included recipes and
described food preparation techniques from Delmonico's Restaurant.
Filippini and Ranhofer provided the recipe for the Delmonico Steak,
and their recipes are essentially the same.
Filippini's recipe
Alessandro Filippini provides the recipe for the Delmonico Steak as
Recipe Number 812 at page 233 of The International Cook Book.
Of the thousands of recipes in the this treatise and in The Table,
Filippini gives only this recipe for Delmonico Steak, and this is the
only recipe uses the word Delmonico for any kind of steak or beef
dish.
812. Delmonico's Steaks, Bordelaise
Nicely trim and lightly flatten with a cleaver two tender sirloin
steaks of one and a quarter pounds each. Mix on a plate one
teaspoon salt, half teaspoon white pepper, and a tablespoon oil and
gently roll the steaks in the seasoning; arrange on a broiler
and broil on a brisk [charcoal] fire for eight minutes on each side.
Remove and dress on a hot dish. Pour hot Bordelaise sauce,
prepared as per [Recipe] No. 28, over and serve. Id at 233.
It should be noted that the addition of the Bordelaise sauce changes
the name from the basic Delmonico's Steak to the "Demonico's Steaks,
Bordelaise" (which is given in the plural, because two sirloin steaks
are used in the single recipe, because the recipe was designed as a
single meal for guests).
Ranhofer's recipe
Ranhofer provides the recipe for the Delmonico Steak as Recipe Number
1375 at page 487 of The Epicurean. Of the 3,500 recipes in
the treatise, Ranhofer gives only this recipe, which uses the word
Delmonico for any kind of steak or beef dish.
[Recipe Number] (1375). Delmonico Sirloin Steak of Twenty
Ounces, Plain (Bifteck de Contrefilet Delmonico de Vingt Onces,
Nature).
Cut from a sirloin slices two inches in thickness; beat them
to flatten them to an inch and a half thick, trim nicely; they
should now weigh twenty ounces each; salt them on both sides,
baste them over with oil or melted butter, and broil them on a
moderate fire for fourteen minutes if desired very rare;
eighteen to be done properly, and twenty-two to be well done.
Set them on a hot dish with a little clear gravy ([Recipe] No. 404) or
maitre d'hotel butter ([Recipe] No. 581).
Ranhofer at 487.
Ranhofer follows this plain version of the Delmonico Steak with two
others versions of the same steak which, like Filippini's versions, are
served with a different sauce: a la Perigueux and Spanish style.
It is clear from Ranhofer's illustration, Fig. 311, that the sirloin
steak is boneless.
Ranhofer, Fig. 311 at 487. Because Ranhofer teaches the use of
the finest ingredients, one may reasonably assume that the proper
sirloin is the best available: a boneless, Prime-Grade,
dry-aged, top sirloin (IMPS 181A). More information about this
cut is available on the webpage about the
nine different Sirloin Steaks.
Solution or another mystery?
This should have laid to rest the controversy about which cut
of beef is used in the original, authentic Delmonico steak. But
how is it that even Delmonico's Restaurant in New York City -- even
though the restaurant is not a real successor to the original
Delmonico's -- how is it that this new Delmonico's does not use the
authentic cut for its Delmonico Steak?
Is it possible that the solution above -- relying on the recipes of
two of the restaurant's great chefs de cuisine -- is not the
correct solution, after all? How did this state of affairs come
about? How is it that some many authorities claim that different
cuts of meat are the authentic Delmonico Steak? Perhaps the
mystery has not yet been solved, and there are two plausible and
interesting theories.
Delmonico means merely "the best"
By 1868, after the United States had recovered from the Civil War,
the fame of Delmonico's Restaurant (or, more properly, restaurants,
because by then there were four Delmoico's Restaurant locations in New
York) continued to grow. First by newspapers and then by the
railroad and telegraph, the name and feats at Delmonico's spread across
the land.
For example, in 1873, a wealthy importer prevailed on Lorenzo
Delmonico and his famous chef, Charles Ranhofer, to spare no cost in
giving a banquet that would be the talk of the world. The was to
be a carte blanche dinner, which meant that without limitation
as to cost. The affair was retold thus:
In Delmonico's largest room an oval table was constructed, to seat
seventy-five guests. The table filled the entire floor space
except for a passage just wide enough for the waiters to circulate.
The center of the table was a lake thirty feet long, landscaped with
exotic plants, waterfalls, violet-bordered brooks, blossoming hillocks
and grassy glades. The lake was enclosed by a mesh of gold wire
extending to the ceiling, and this formed a cage for several swans
that glided upon the water; Tiffany had constructed the cage,
and the swans were on loan from Prospect Park in Brooklyn.
Around the foot of the wire screen was an embankment of flowers to
protect the diners from splashing when the swans now and then fought.
Over the lake were suspended golden cages containing songbirds.
The entire Delmonico's staff was summoned to admire this
aquatic-gastronomic masterpiece, and the "Swan Dinner" went down in
legend.
Thomas at 149.
The name Delmonico had long before entered the general usage and
become synonymous with "the best". Americans in Chicago,
Denver, New Orleans and San Francisco, who had never seen and would
never see much less dine at a Delmonico's Restaurant, used with word
with a full understanding of its meaning.
With this background, the theory may be explained. It is very
possible that patrons of restaurants across America asked their chefs
for a "Delmonico Steak", meaning by that that they wanted the "best
steak in the house". Naturally, the chefs obliged their patrons'
requests, some with ribeye, some with top loin, others with tenderloin,
and so forth. This would explain the many different meanings,
across the U.S. and across time, for Delmonico Steak.
One authority agrees
One authority who agrees with the foregoing is a butcher who is an
authority on meat cuts. Craig Meyer, who has been a meatcutter for
more than 30 years and who maintains the
Ask the Meatman FAQ, gives the
following:
Question: What is the cut of beef that is called
Delmonico Dteak? Do they cut these steaks any more and what
should I ask for at the super market? Thank you.
Answer: There are more than sixty different beef cuts
in the meat case today. Add in the fact that many cuts have
several different names and the meat case can be very confusing.
And a steak may be labeled a certain name in one area of the U.S.,
and the same labeled name in another area might be a completely
different cut of steak.
In my area, Southeast Missouri, a Delmonico steak was a Boneless
Top Sirloin beef steak.
In other parts of the country, a Delmonico was was a Bone-In Top
Loin Steak (cut from the short loin), or a Rib-Eye Steak (cut from the
rib).
So, unless you know if the Delmonico steak you have had before was
cut from: the Short Loin, Sirloin, or Rib, it's hard to tell
exactly what you have eaten before as a Delmonico steak.
You could possible look at the above three choices labeled as such
in the grocery's meat case, and see if one of those "looked" like what
you had before. If so, then go with that one.
I know this wasn't a quick easy answer, but there really isn't one.
But I hope this sets you out on the right path. (Emphasis
added.) Id.
Sirloin changed meanings
There is a second, plausible explanation for the fact that both
Filippini's and Ranhofer's recipes for the Delmonico Steak call for the
"sirloin steak" yet modern authorities never use "sirloin steak."
The explanation might be that the meaning of the word "sirloin" changed
over the last hundred years, so that what Filippini and Ranhofer
described as the "sirloin" is not what is known today as the "sirloin".
In the French language, the word sur means above or
over. In beef, the long narrow tender muscle that runs along
the inside of the rib cage on either side of the spine is called the
tenderloin.
The following summarizes the theory of the meaning of the French
sur:
In the 19th Century, the tenderloin muscle was called the loin
(in French, le loigne). This was the name given to the
entire area of cattle in the area of the lower back and, more
particularly, to the muscle that ran along the inside of the rib cage
on either side of the spine.
A long back muscle runs along the outside of the rib cage on either
side of the spine. Because this muscle was above the loin
muscle, the French butchers and cooks called it the sur loigne,
which translated into the English language as the similarly sounding
sirloin.
Only later was this long back muscle subdivided into the chuck
(front shoulder), rib, top loin and sirloin portions.
Therefore, a 19th Century recipe that called for a "sirloin steak"
did not refer to a modern sirloin steak but instead meant any steak
taken from the entire length of the back muscle, including the chuck,
rib, top loin and sirloin portions.
If the analysis concluded at this point, then the result would be
that the Delmonico Steak means all eight or nine cuts, as claimed by the
various authorities mentioned above! All their claims would be
correct, because the Delmonico Steak would mean the cut from any portion
of the entire back muscle, from the chuck-eye, through the rib-eye and
top loin, and including the modern-day sirloin cut.
Note that both Filippini and Ranhofer referred to sirloin steak
in their books published between 1900 and 1910, so that is the critical
time period in which to determine if the word meant the entire back
muscle or the modern-day sirloin.
Evidence supports of the theory that the word sirloin steak meant
more than merely the modern usage. That is in Filippini's recipe
for Entrecotes, in which he calls for the use of a "sirloin steak".
See Recipe No. 1483. The modern word entrecotes is from the
French words entre cotes, which means literally "between ribs".
The entrecote cut is thus the rib steak (with or without the bone).
Meaning of sirloin
The solution to the sirloin mystery nears.
Meaning and etymology
According to the Oxford English Dictionary ("OED"), the English word
sirloin is derived from the French words sur loigne, which
means "above the loin". OED.
According to the OED, sirloin means:
1. The upper and choicer part of a loin of beef, used for roasting.
Id.
The OED provides early uses of the word which reflect the change in
its spelling:
- 1525 -- serlyn
- 1554 -- surloyn
- 1559 -- surloyne
- 1718 -- surloin
- 1819 -- sir-loin
- 1836 -- sirloin
The OED explains the fictitious etymology variously stated in the following quotations:
1655 Fuller. A Sir-loyne of beef was set
before Him (so knighted, saith tradition, by
this King Henry VIII)
1731 Swift. But, pray, why is it called a
Sir-loyn? Why, our King James First, being
invited to dinner by one of his nobles, and seeing a large Loyn of
Beef at his Table, drew out his sword and knighted it.
1822 Cook's Oracle. Sir-Loin of Beef. This joint is
said to owe its name to King Charles the Second, who dining upon a
Loin of Beef, said for its merit it should be knighted, and henceforth
called Sir-Loin.
Synonymous with top loin
The 19th Century meaning of sirloin included the entire top
loin muscles, which runs from the modern cuts called chuck eye, through
the rib-eye and top loin, and down to and including the sirloin.
Note that modern usage identifies the individual muscles of each cut of
meat, but in the 19th Century, the entire bundle of related muscles were
treated as one. As an example of this usage, consider the
Porterhouse Steak.
The Porterhouse includes the bone (part of the spine and the riblet)
which separates the modern-day tenderloin muscle (which is inside the
rib cage -- or more precisely, inside the body cavity where the rib cage
would be, if it extended that far down) and the modern-day top loin
(which is outside the rib cage). In modern usage, the Porterhouse
does not include the sirloin -- the sirloin begins farther down.
With this background, consider the following excerpt from
A Tramp Abroad, which was
written by Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain) in 1894:
[It was] a mighty porterhouse steak an inch and a half thick, hot
and sputtering from the griddle; dusted with fragrant pepper; enriched
with little melting bits of butter of the most unimpeachable freshness
and genuineness; the precious juices of the meat trickling out
and joining the gravy, archipelagoed with mushrooms; a township or two
of tender, yellowish fat gracing an outlying district of this ample
country of beefsteak; the long white bone which divides the
sirloin from the tenderloin still in place. (Emphasis
added.) Clemens Tramp
at Chap. 49, "Hanged with a Golden Rope."
This shows that, in the 19th Century, the word sirloin meant
or at least included the entire muscle which in modern usage is the top
loin.
This also confirms the confusion in meat nomenclature, particularly
before 1973, when the National Live Stock and Meat Board recommended
about 300 standard names be used for cuts of meat (which were selected
from thousands of regional names that confuse customers as to what they
are getting).
Usage by Ranhofer
In his 1894 treatise The Epicurean, Ranhofer described many
terms. Ranhofer describes the use of only four major sections of
beef:
- Fillet
- Loin, Flat Bone
- Loin, Hip Bone
- Loin, Short
Notice that he did not describe a separate section of meat called the
sirloin, which is expected if at the time the word sirloin
referred to a secion of beef and not just a cut.
Ranhofer at 21.
Terms changed from then to now. In modern usage, the Prime Rib
refers to the best bone-in roast cut from the back (posterior) of the
Rib Section, which is from the 6th to the 12th rib, inclusive, and which
is in front of (anterior) to the Short Loin Section. In the time
of Delmonico's Restaurant, however, Rahnofer wrote this about the Prime
Rib:
American roast beef is taken from the ribs; sometimes seven
ribs are served [note that this corresponds with the modern usage, in
which the Rib Section is comprised of seven ribs, being the 6th
through the 12th, inclusive], but the piece containing six [by which
is meant the cut containing the 7th through the 12th ribs, inclusive]
is far more advantageous, while the four rib piece [the 9th through
the 12th ribs, inclusive], cut from the short loin is better
still. Ranhofer at
177-178.
Note: It is possible that Ranhofer included the 13th
rib in the Prime Rib. In this case, Ranhofer included either
eight ribs in the entire rib section (the 6th through the 13th ribs)
or seven ribs (the 7th through the 13th ribs).
That is, the terms of beef sections and cuts have changed
significantly between then and now.
Note: it can be inferred that, for Ranhofer, the Short Loin
included three parts -- the Front Short Loin, the Middle Short Loin
and the Back Short Loin -- and that, for Ranhofer, the Middle Short
Loin was the same as the modern term for Short Loin.
Ranhofer at 481.
Ranhofer called the Hip what modern usage calls the Sirloin.
Ranhofer at 472.
In the 19th Century, there is no doubt that the sirloin meant the
entire back muscle which begins at the ribs (beginning with the modern
Chuck Eye), proceeds through the ribs and loin (through the modern Rib
Eye and Top Loin), and ends in front of the hip (and includes the modern
Top Sirloin). Recall that, in modern usage, the sirloin section is
behind the short loin. Consider the following usages from the 19th
Century:
Remove the sirloin from a piece of middle short loin . . . .
Ranhofer at 482.
Take a sirloin from a short loin . . . .
Ranhofer at 484.
The question is settled with Ranhofer's discussion of how to cut a
Porterhouse Steak. The Porterhouse Steak is a bone-in steak cut
from (in modern terms) the short loin and contains a piece of top loin
and a piece of tenderloin. But Ranhofer uses different terms:
([Recipe No.] 1362.) Porterhouse Steak (Bifteck d'Aloyau).
Select a good, fleshy middle short loin, the meat being pink and
very tender. Cut slices an inch and three-quarters thick, in
the tenderloin and sirloin, sawing away the spine bone form the
rib. Cut off the fat and sinews, and trim it nicely to the shape
of the accompanying [illustration]; after trimming it should
weigh two pounds and a quarter.
Ranhofer at 485.
In modern terms, the steak would be described as cut "in the
tenderloin and top loin".
Delmonico Steak
In French, the word bifteck means steak. The
French word contrefilet meant sirloin in Ranhofer's time,
or top loin in modern usage. Therefore, a bifteck de
contrefilet in Ranhofer's time was called a sirloin steak but
in modern usage is called a top loin steak. Now again
consider Ranhofer's recipe for the Delmonico Steak:
[Recipe Number] (1375). Delmonico Sirloin Steak of Twenty
Ounces, Plain (Bifteck de Contrefilet Delmonico de Vingt Onces,
Nature).
Cut from a sirloin slices two inches in thickness; beat them
to flatten them to an inch and a half thick, trim nicely; they
should now weigh twenty ounces each . . . .
Ranhofer at 487.
Both the words used by Ranhofer and the illustration given confirm
the fact that the original, authentic Delmonico Steak, as served at
Delmonico's Restaurant in the 19th Century, was a boneless top loin.
About this, there can now be no doubt whatsoever.
In Ranhofer's time, the sirloin included the entire back
muscle which, in modern terms, would have included the chuck eye, rib
eye, top loin and top sirloin. However, the evidence shows that
the Delmonico Steak was cut from (in modern terms) in back of (posterior
to) the rib sectiona and in front of (anterior to) the cuts of the
Porterhouse Steak. This is supported by the following facts:
- Delmonico's Restaurant regularly served Prime Rib (which, as
shown above, is cut from the middle of, in Ranhofer's terms, the
sirloin; and
- Delmonico's Restaurant regularly served Porterhouse Steaks,
which are cut from the back of, in Ranhofer's terms, the sirloin,
where it adjoins the tenderloin.
Using modern terminology, the Delmonico Steak is the steak which is
cut between the end of the rib section and the first Porterhouse Steak.
In modern terms, this is the first (anterior) few inches of the Short
Loin have no tenderloin. When boneless, this Top Loin Steak is the
original, authentic Delmonico Steak.
Finally, the analysis shows that there could have been an argument
that the Delmonico Steak could have been cut from in front of (anterior
to) (in Ranhofer's terms) the Prime Ribs. As shown above, this
could mean that the Delmonico Steak was either (in modern terms) the
last (posterior) chuck eye or the first (anterior) rib-eye.
Ranhofer's words might allow either of these possibilities, but two
facts negate it:
- First, Delmonico's Restaurant served only the best of the best.
In the 19th Century, beef was not as good as today's, and the chuck
eye steak and the rib-eye steak were not as tender or as flavorful
as other cuts. Ranhofer assuredly would not put the name of
his restaurant on an inferior (less tender and less flavorful) cut.
- Second, the entire issue is disposed by reference to Ranhofer's
illustration of the Delmonico Steak, which is clearly (in modern
terms) a boneless top loin steak.
Ranhofer at 487.
Conclusion
The long journey to trace the identify of the original, authentic
Delmonico Steak has concluded. The solution of the original
mystery created another mystery, but all now is clear.
The original, authentic Delmonico Steak is not a bone-in steak.
It is not a chuck-eye steak, a rib-eye steak, a porterhouse steak, or a
sirloin steak. And it is not any boneless top loin.
These are great steaks, but none is the Delmonico Steak.
The historical fact is that the original, authentic Delmonico Steak
is, in modern terms, the first boneless top loin steak cut from
the front of (anterior to) the short loin.
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